David Mason: A Bouldering Life.

9th day on and counting!

2009-12-01T11:24:00.002Z

The weather has been poor, to say the least and Paxti is a massive beast so I thought I would try training lots and lots, and lots and lots; obviously not to the same intensity as Paxti. It seems to be going quite well and I am enjoying the hard work, my body seems to be realising that my mind is not going to relent and actually climbing quite well! I feel strong and I am hoping that fitness will improve just because my body is not getting much rest!

The past 9 days have involved a mixture of board climbing, fingerboarding, campussing, weights, core, general climbing and shock horror even a few times on the grit!! As long as you keep changing up what your doing the body seems to be able to cope. If the fingers feel tired then weights and core give them a rest etc.

My other inspiration at the moment is Malc, I watched his Pro Tips the other day (yes the one with the subtitles) and since then I have been trying to climb as open and basic as possible. My style is naturally quite flick and jump orientated, so big locks and no gay legs is hard but I am seeing a definite improvement.

I managed a sneaky hour at Almscliff on Saturday before the sun went down. I haven't been there for ages and wanted to see if I still had all the old problems on lock down. The circuit consisted of the Bulb (V10), the Keel (V8), Matts Roof (V9), Dolphin Belly Slap (V6) and Demon Wall Roof (V7). The last two were climbed in the dark and it felt nice to still be able to complete these boulders with some ease.

I also witnessed Tom Peckitt (the boy is a beast) make the 5th ascent of Cherry Falls, a very hard 8a+ put up by Clifford aeons ago. The Problem is very cool and basic for grit but it revolves around a very sharp crimp, I would like to put some time into it but not sure my skin will agree or my wallet (petrol what a bitch)!

Yesterday I awoke to blue skies and sun. Although I wanted to train I headed out for a session at Burbage North. I am quite content to just get out on the grit at the moment and tick through some things I should have done. Also the main focus is on training for Font in January and climbing on the grit will keep up my attempt at technique. With this in mind I headed out to try Blind Fig, unfortunately this would have involved some deep water soloing! Not to be discouraged I went over to try Striker. A hard V10 that has seen very few ascents (Moon, Pearson and Adams?). I suppose it would be described as a dyno but its a funky one. Pulling on with a block undercut and a crimp, you smear your feet high up the wall and go to a 5mm index finger shot hole. By crimping the shot hole you raise your body and then go again for a slopey break, as you catch this only your left hand stays in contact with the rock! After ripping a vertical split over an inch long in my finger, I taped it up and managed to send the problem!! Very pleased, a brilliant couple of moves and one off my to-do list.

I then headed inside for a board session, my skin hurt and so I concentrated on big lockie moves between good holds, staying open at all times of course. Weights and core today, with team training in Newcastle at the weekend, sure Earl with have some nasty things instore for us!

Pictures

2009-11-06T15:48:00.004Z

Big Wall (its actual name)

Terminator. 8a

The Hulk. Old Skool 7c/+

The Frankenjura

2009-11-06T15:16:00.006Z

This place is magical, it has a similar feeling to Fontainbleau. Limestone escarpments peak (no pun intended) out between the trees and moss coversed boulders lie forgotten about in the depths of the forests. Not many people come here solely to boulder and I can see why, you really do need someone in the know how to show you around. Feurzange. 8a+

Luckily we did, Fabian, Mona and Seb made us feel right home; showing us a huge number of problems and also where all the good watering holes were! That is definately a plus point of the place- the beer is excellent!

The climbing is also brilliant, although there are not so many majestic lines, the quality of the rock and movement involved make up for that. It also a place that you thoroughly get shut down, no holiday grades here! However that did not stop us from getting things done, although the weather and injurues definately tried to halt us in our tracks. That is a downside of the place; it has weather like England. We suffered a great deal of rain and lots of condensation on the rock when it was a bit warmer.

A brief run through of some of the high- and low-lights of the trip:

Back 2 Varian went out with a bad finger, however it did get better (and then got worse again) maybe something to do with the brutal crimping on Omega Man, a classic 8a/+ that he crushed.

Crimping Thompson managed a few good ticks in his two weeks with us including knockenmuhle, a cool, steep powerful 8a.

He was replaced by Lee 'dense loner' Anderson who brought with him dark humour, sarcasm and rain! He also invented new words in scrabble (foy can mean anything you desire) and schooled us all at monopoly.

Ned came out of retirement for a few days and crushed a bunch of 8a's and above including violation and Feurzange both 8a + and both on the same day! Grrrr the pale ghost is back!

Of the Aussie contingent Andy unfortunately had to go home after his finger (previously injured) flared up again big time and he couldnt take the pain of watching Benjamin Cossey climbing whilst he could only belay! Ben crushed routes and boulders whlist all the time putting his real efforts into Action Direct. He did Sea of Green and 8a+ bloc and Plan B and 8b route.

As for myself I managed to do a few 7c's and some good 8's also-
Knockenmuhle 8a
Billiard 8a
Lucky Punch 8a
V2 8a
Evergreen Terrace 8a+

Terminator 8a Evergreen Terrace. 8a+

In summary I had an ace trip, stayed in a real nice house (where Dai stays when he crushes the place), met some quality people who will no doubt be friends for life and the climbing wasnt half bad either!

Innsbrooklyn

2009-11-06T14:43:00.008Z

A nice starting picture for this post of Ned, Keith and I freezing our bollocks off after a swin under Dolby Digital in the Zillertal!

Me and Ned headed to Innsbruck at the end of September to see Keith. I will keep it brief but Innsbruck is a sweet place to reside! Keith and James apartment is PIMP, the city seems lively and there is lots of good climbing and skiing close by. Perfect! We spent 5 days there mainly eating pizza and sampling some fine ice cream but squeezed in a bit of climbing to at Zillertal and Silvretta.

At zillertal we met up with my friend Emi who had just returned from South Africa. We warmed up and then got straight onto the main event, Incubator. This is an old Jerry project which unfortaunately if often wet. However we lucked out and although it was warm a cool breeze was blowing right by, drying the holds out to a holdable state! I quickly sussed the moves and started some attempts from the bottom, the first move is the hardest move in my opinion but it relies on timing rather than brutal strength. After a few attempts I stuck the move and proceeded to climb the bloc to the top. A very occasion for me to not be a punt and drop the top, although I nearly did as I hadnt been on it!! Very pleased indeed as it was a climb I had always wanted to do.

Incubator, 8B.

Taken by Emi Moosburger

Our next climbing was a day trip to Silvretta, a very beautiful alpine bouldering venue at about 2000 metres. The rock quality here though is not so good, it is sharp and leaves you in tears. However I had one of my best days out climbing, we met up with Stew Watson, Luki and Elias. I managed to climb 3 problems that were graded 8a (one was even a flash) but realistically British Airways and Niviuk are 7c/+ and the Shining more like 7c+/8a. I was made up though especially as the Shining is sooooooo crimpy! We saw Memento and had a brief play but my skin was burning, Stew went back the week after and sent it packing, good effort!! Just as we were packing up the clouds that had started to look menacing decided to unload hale all over us! Nevermind back to Innsbruck for Pizza ans ice cream!

Ned on the Shining, 8A.

Taken by Elias Holzkencht

It was now off to the Frankenjura for Ned and I and back into late night editing mode for Keith.

Anstonia and Training

2009-09-01T13:49:00.003+01:00

I have been heading to Anston Stones (near worksop) recently, the limestone here is magnesium based rather than the more typical calcium based rock that is found in white peak area. The rock is softer but creates much better features and lines than the calcium based stuff.

At the weekend I managed to get the 2nd ascent of an amazing Mike Adams problem called Warriors Peril (8a). This is one of the finest problems that I have ever climbed, it is the full package! About 14 moves in length it involves compression, undercuts, pockets and crimps; bicycles, smears, toe and heel hooks. There is even a bit of spice thrown in at the end just when your really pumped for that added challenge. Earlier in the week I had worked out the moves and had a few burns from the start but fading light meant that I had to return on Sunday. After a brief warm up I decided to try to link the problem as the rest day had not left me feeling rested at all!

My first go I managed to get through to the last move only to catch the final crimp wrong, instead of adjusting it I carried on but not feeling comfortable after the foot movement I dropped off, what an idiot! My next go I got to the same move, feeling much better I knew that I was in, only my heel to rip! As I was holding the cut loose my right hand greased off the crimp leading to a scary fall (cheers Andy for the spot).

Third time lucky I thought or was it to turn into a last moveitis problem, which is the norm for me. I took a long rest, ate some cashews and dispatched with ease (I think) on my next go!! I was relieved but also so pleased to have done such a high quality problem. During the climb I hit all the holds right and had that feeling, that I dont get often enough, I knew if I just concentrated that I would be in.

This was one of last things I wanted to do before heading to the Jura at the end of September and with the others all being a few hours drive away I will mainly be training and working in the upcoming weeks. Yesterday I came up with my own mini Gaskins project on the board at the Works. I am sure he could do it in his sleep but for me each move is close to my crimp and core limit! Very psyched to try and get it done before I go, it always amazes me how chunks of wood can entertain and motivate so much in our sport!!

Hopefully some pictures or even footage to follow if I manage to head back out that way in this tropical weather!

Mutton Busting

2009-08-20T22:32:00.004+01:00

Taken by Ben Pritchard

Outdoors and Getting Stronger

2009-08-20T22:03:00.002+01:00

So as the title says I have been trying to juggle the two. How successfully I am doing this who knows, I do feel quite strong and I am managing to get up some things. Had a brilliant time up in northumberland and the lakes with Ned, Dan, Tom and Katy. We visited some fine, fine sandstone, took a trip to the seaside and pulled hard on the giant Bowder pebble. The trip was very laid back with hot weather and huge amounts of food consumed!! Definately heading back up there at some point before we depart for the Jura.

So the Jura is getting closer, only 6 weeks. I am trying to earn as much money as possible while training hard. I have mainly been using the board at the works- trying projects and then getting in some mileage on more familar problems. I love the board, how hard you have to try to scrape your way to the top and how completely fatigued you feel by the end of a session!!

Today I decided to go on the campus board. Now this is something that I do very rarely. Dont ask me why but campusing is a form of training that I have never really participated in. So it was to my great surprise when I managed to float up 1-5-8 on both sides and get close(ish) to 1-5-9 when leading with my right arm!! I then did some power endurance which was my real reason for going on the campus board. I remember Andy Earl once showing us a routine he used to do. I set my sights on this and got shut down, excellent, something to really get my teeth into. Basically it involves doing 1-4-6 on both arms followed straight away by 1-4-7 and then 1-5-8!! I did this 3 times and could barely get past 5 at the end!!

Everytime I campus I remember how much I love the feeling and motion of it. I will definately be doing some more before we head off but the board is the real focus, I feel this can yield the biggest gains in shortest amount of time.

I have recently been thinking about lifetime climbing goals, here is what I have come up with:

Climb Hubble (I tried this in the blazing heat last week. More strength is definately needed and this is a winter aim with the idea of completing this next summer).
1-5-9 on both arms.
Climb consistently hard problems wherever I go and on varying rock types
Stand on the podium at a world cup round
Climb 8B+ boulder

I feel all these are very achievable, perhaps with exception to the last one. Unfortunately as much as I love competition climbing I am not sure I have the mental toughness for it, but this in turn is why I want to achieve this goal so much.

We will see what the future holds, for now its back to the juggling...

Darkside of the Moon

2009-08-20T21:54:00.003+01:00

One of the best problems I have done. Darkside of the Moon at St.Bees is perfect, if it only it were taller!

Mutton Busting

2009-06-21T13:35:00.002+01:00

Having returned from the Eindhoven World Cup inspired I thought I would take the opportunity to get back out on the lime. A couple of weeks ago I had my first session on a brilliant roof problem in Blackwell Dale. Mutton Busting is the sit start to an amzing 7b of Rupert Davies. Ned the first ascent of this problem last summer and it has seen just 2 ascemts from 'back 2' Varian and Mick Adams.

I knew that all I needed was some slightly cooler conditions to dispatch as last session I did the moves and worked out my sequence. Driving out to the peak it was overcast and a slight breeze was blowing, fingers crossed it would be dry. Upon arrival I warmed up and conditions seemed ok, a couple of damp holds but with chalk they dried up.

The first 2 moves make the problem: Starting with a big heel, a small crimp and pinch, the left hands slap around the lip to a back 3 pod and my index finger sits on a papule of rock. Some tensiony foot moves allow the right hand to slap round the lip into a digonal crack. From here the problem finishes on some slopey pinches and a big throw to the top off a strange side pull.

When Ned origionally did it he gave it a speculative 8a. However Dan and Mick both thought 8a+, to me it felt harder than most 8a's so low end 8a+?! Who knows! Whatever the grade the climbing is phenomenal-very techy yet powerful and dynamic makes for a spicy cocktail. It should be high up on any peak aficionado's list!

This morning I awoke psyched and headed out to Crag X to finish off a problem called 'Bizarre Ride'. I dropped the finishing jug last week due to being a numpty! This is a new problem that my friend Gangle put up about a month ago. It is slightly eliminate but there is not enough roof climbing in the peak and the moves are excellent. It is 4 moves long and requires good tension, dynamism and a bit of luck in getting a frustrating heel to stay put on a spike. After warming up and having a few false starts my skin and body were wearing thin. I pulled on, dispatched the first lock, got the heel to stay and threw out to the good pinch, blindly throwing around the lip I stuck the vulkan crimp, cutting loose I swung my feet back on and didnt drop the jug this time!!

A good couple of days! Am psyched for power endurance training at the Foundry at the moment, hoping it will help me in the BBC's, so I will be heading down there this week as well as fingerboarding and perhaps having a look at Hubble!!

Hopefully some pictures to follow.

The Return....

2009-05-19T13:30:00.003+01:00

Well its been along time since my last blog, am not sure of the exact reasons. I went through a time of very low psyche and didnt feel that spreading the word of this was to necessary. Another reason is that I didnt want to just dribble on. When I look at someones blog I like pictures and videos, and to put it simply I just dont have any at the moment.

Ok so excuses and introduction over and on to the main meat. For the past month I have mainly been climbing outside and fingerboarding. This had been due to a niggling finger injury which for some reason is fine on the lime but on plastic it aint too good. Luckily this is going, unluckily I have another slight tweak which is keeping me away from my love of pockets.

My opinion on most injuries is that you can always climb around them, especailly when fingerboard training. So this is what I am doing. My psyche had returned recently and I feel that my strength has raised itself by about half a level! Its a start...

Have had quite a few good ticks recently and obviously with this comes a further raise in your psyche.

Got a world cup round in Eindhoven in a month so my fitness needs to be increased big time. Gonna mix this in with fingerboading and getting out as much as the damn rain allow. As for more long term plans: I want to do Superman using the sidepull (feels hard), a summer of training and climbing around the UK in spots I havent visited before, then off to the Frankenjura in October and hopefully Font after Christmas.

Fingers crossed the injuries go and my psyche returns (hopefully Lanny Bassham will help, if it worked for Jerry then its worth a shot)!

Rubis....

2008-11-18T14:46:00.002Z

A Font classic- Rubis Sur longe 7b+
Taken by: Monsieur Fontinberry himself, Andy Jennings

Fontainberry!

2008-11-02T17:19:00.005Z

C'etait Demain, 8a.

Just returned from Font after my first time in colder conditions. What an amazing place! I cant wait to get back. Not having my own car meant that I just went where everyone else wanted to go. This suited me; I just did classics and lines that took my eye (which was lots)!

Managed to do the first 8a in the forest which was awesome, I actually did it twice it was that good. Apart from that I just did a bunch of good 7's and pottered around, I didnt even see most of the problems I wanted to try but next time....

Am heading back for a month in February so hopefully will get some harder things ticked then. I would love to do the big 4 and there are a few other things I am really keen for, mainly old skool hard problems!

Psyched for some training this week and then heading to work on Friday for the week.

Ticks:

C'etait Demain 8a

Armes d'supplement assis 7c+

Berezina 7c (2nd go)

Alta 7c

L'arrache Coeur 7c

Fourmis Rouge 7c

Infidele 7c

Rubis sur longe 7b+ (2nd go)

Carnage 7b (flash)

Anston Stones

2008-10-12T15:06:00.004+01:00

The Vision, V9

Yesterday a team of us headed over to a limestone bouldering venue near Worksop. Its always good to get to new places especially where there is a wide range of grades and different styles of climbing.

After warming up we got stuck into a V9 called 'Ebola'. This problem was extremely cool and the crux revoled around a dynamic move off a pocket to a side pull. A few goes to suss out the moves and I was at the top, the holds were a bit rough but the climbing thoroughly excellent.

Next up a V9 called 'The Vision', the crux was the first move; pulling off a mono and a back two pocket to slap a left hand sloper. A strange crimp and another mono and I was again at the top.

We then moved on to try a burly roof climb called 'Dark Art'. This involved all areas of climbing from core, fingers and burl to finese and technique. I worked out the moves pretty quickly and was trying the red point. I had one good go and should of held the last hard move but my heel ripped. Had a few other good goes but was tiring fast and the holds seemed to be getting damper! Unfortunately I get finishing off syndrone and this problem is added to the list of blocs I should have ticked but next time hopefully!

I will definately be heading back to the crag at some point but maybe not till next spring now due to seepage!

Off to Paris tomorrow then Font for 3 weeks!!!

The Hulk! Raaaaa!

2008-09-29T10:43:00.002+01:00

Headed to the crag where the the big green monster resides on Saturday. It was boiling hot but when got down to the rock it felt pretty cool. Unfortunately it was also quite wet. We started to dry holds off and conditions felt ok if a little spoogy. Now I know V10 isnt really much these days but the 'Hulk' has always felt nails to me, far harder than the 'Thing' which stands at V11 so to do it would be awesome.

I have never got anywhere on it before, just pulling on felt hard but today I could pull on and almost static the first move. I was pleased but still didnt think it would go. The second move is definately the crux but I crushed that el static and proceeded on wet holds to the top!! I was extremely psyched! Even on wet holds I felt really strong! As always I had been filming others on the 'Thing' but my unexpected ascent was not recorded. Oh well!

Did a core session yesterday with a British Olympic diver; some good stuff and I do ache a bit today!

Motivation-A very strange thing!

2008-09-26T12:01:00.002+01:00

Not got any recent photos so here is one my friend just sent me from Hueco of 'Power of Lanjager', V11.

Not blogged for a while but then havent had much to write really. I havent really been psyched for anything around the Peak so have just been training; lots of core and fingerboarding. I am feeling pretty strong but not so fit!

Went out the other day to show Ned and Mina around Roche Abbey. They both thought the rock quality was brilliant and problems good to. I managed to do 'Addiction', V10 from sitting first go which was cool as i wasnt even going to try it.

After that we headed to try an amazing V11 at a crag near by. It revolves around 2 (very) big moves; I got quite close to both of them but felt very tired very quickly, am psyched to go back as its one of the best problems I have tried for ages and it feels HARD, which is always a bonus!

Got a few weeks left till Paris, unfortunately one of them will be spent at work. Then I am off to Font for 3 weeks!! Woop woop, I have only been in summer so am looking forward to some better conditions hopefully! Then am going out to Swiss for 3 weeks, I cant wait!!

5 Days On!!

2008-08-07T22:02:00.004+01:00

I am going down south this weekend for a family do so I thought I would try and cram a lot into this week, climbing wise at least!

Sunday: I headed out onto the lime, conditions were very hot and pretty rubbish, managed a few ticks and a few splits!
Monday: I fingerboarded, and enjoyed this very much although my skin did not. I had personal bests on my frenchie sets.
Tuesday: Campused; Although I felt tired I managed 1-4-7 five out of six sets (very good for me)! Did a few eliminates on the comp wall.
Wednesday: Headed over to Manchester to stay with James and Em for the night. We had a quick session at the wall doing most of the harder problems, then enjoyed yummy food (thanks Em) and watched films!
Thursday: Headed out on lime again, what a mistake I should of finger boarded. It was so humid, possibly the worst conditions I have ever climbed in. Then it rained and we got wet!

So a few days of rest and eating nice food; next week I am just training! I was pleased with climbing 5 days on and not feeling too tired on any of the days, maybe I am building up just a small amount of fitness?!

A bit of blurred/dark picture of 'The Fool' (V8+) at Beef Buttress. Dont know why but I like it!

Training, Lime & Training

2008-08-03T21:39:00.002+01:00

Started training again and am lovin' it I have to say. Have started campusing (cause I am rubbish at it) and fingerboarding as well as trying to mix up the climbing with indoors and outdoors. Although conditions have been far from perfect I have managed to tick a few problems this last week at some of the more esoteric limestone spots.
Each session has ended up with a split tip and the need to go back and finish off a problem, oh for good conditions!

Here is a video of the 2nd ascent of a brilliant V9 called Alacrity. Its at an undisclosed area for now but all will be revealed soon enough.

Untitled from david mason on Vimeo.

I have also done a few other 9's at a place over near Rotherham. These problems are some of the best that I have done on limestone, showing that our area is far from mined out!! I will try and get some other pictures and video up soon.

In the mean time, I have to let my tip heal and onwards with the training, fingerboarding tomorrow. Woop woop!!

And so it Begins....

2008-07-16T18:05:00.002+01:00

I began training again on Monday and to say that I am psyched is an understatement. I did a fingerboard session on Monday evening in the comfort of the new houses cellar. I didnt sweat once, amazing! I only did three different exercises but 5 sets of each and I think they will help a lot, I am gonna try and do this twice a week with maybe a pockets hang session too.

Today I headed to the works with new British Champ Ned; we did a campus session and then tried the yellow circuit. Campusing was good, I have never really done any sustained campus training and am very psyched for it. For the time being I am just doing Simpsons training that is posted on the Moon website. Gonna try and do this 1/2 times a week. The yellow circuit is hard with some real dirt on it, managed about half before pumping out! Fitness is my main area to work on and luckily Ned is always psyched for this so hopefully he can kick my ass in to gear.

I tried a one arm front lever today! Wanna do this before 2009 arrives!

BBC's

2008-07-14T09:18:00.003+01:00

Yesterday was the British Bouldering Championships in Millhouses Park, Sheffield. I was a bit apprehensive about competing due to my shoulder and so started off very slowly. Unfortunately nearly all the qualifiers seemed to have some sort of right shoulder move on them. After a while I started to pick up a few points and towards the end I was in with a chance of qualifying for the finals. However a few foot slips and the cautious climbing from earlier kept me out. I finished in 10th with 8 going through to the final. I was pleased to have been close with no training and holding back during the comp but also a bit disappointed because I think I could have qualified if I had been a little bit more outgoing. Oh well, next year!!

The finals problems looked good (think they would have suited me). Effort to Shaggy and Tom for representing the Bingly massive in the finals, Stew and Dave both climbed really well but young whipper snapper Ned pipped them both on the last problem, big ups to the boy! He climbed really well and deserved it!

The whole event seemed to go really well so congrats to everyone involved!

Photographs for your Pleasure!

2008-07-11T21:16:00.003+01:00

High Spirit 8a+/b

Left Hand of Darkness 8a+

Voigas 8a+

Frogger 8a (and cobweb)

Sunshine after the Rain

One HOT Summer!

2008-07-11T19:50:00.002+01:00

Ok here goes; a brief report of a Euro trip- over 3000 miles driving, 7 stops, pastries galore and bit of alcohol thrown in; some snow, some rain, a lot of sun and even a bit of climbing!

After 20 hours driving Ned, Gangle and myself arrive at Susten Pass to snow!! Not such a good start, Ned falls down a hole resulting in snow up to his nipples. After a bimble around we sack it to Chironico for the night, blue skiies greet us and after a huge pizza we have a look around. Next morning equals rain!

Off to Magic!! After a couple of days of rain the sun comes out and never goes away. Temps are perfect for sun bathing and Ned gets burnt (regularly)! He also does some good sending as does Tom. For me this trip was about having fun and trying to get back into it after my shoulder. Gladly I didnt really feel my shoulder at all until a few days from the end, where I slightly tweaked it!

It was also a trip of nearlies for me; if the weather had been slightly cooler I would have definately come away with a few more ticks but they are being saved for colder times. I did however climb 'High Spirit' which was awesome, I came so close last year and didnt even try it this year until the last few days. Tom got interested and found some beta that cut the foot movements from 8 to 4, I wasted a rest day to see if I could do it this way and sure enough it worked. I woke up early the next morning for slightly cooler temps and 2nd go it was done!

We then headed to check out Fionnay, a place which seems to have steered clear of the crowds since Graham was there in 2006. I did a few things there but again should of done more, I got a really bad split which meant I couldnt finish off some climbs, but I will be back. Its a beautiful place and the main cave stays cool even in the baking sun. There are also some very nice blocs in the woods and meadow! I am sure there is plenty of potential in the surrounding area to!

A short stop over in Annecy to see my Dad and swim in the lake and we were off to Montauban for Ned to compete in the World Cup! The boy did good finishing in 23rd, narrowly missing the semi's. Audrey climbed really well and made the semi's. I had never been to a World Cup before and I am gutted that I didnt get the chance to do any this year! It was an amazing experience, and I am so psyched now to train hard and maybe one day get on a podium. The party after was a good laugh, although the car journey the next day wasn't!!

We finished the trip with a few days in Font staying at Neils place. His gite is so nice and the board is quality too, definately a thumbs up from us! I slightly hurt my shoulder and so didnt climb so much. Ned and Tom both did 'Fata Morgana' and Tom dispatched 'Opium'! Effort boys!

As for now; BBC's on Sunday, house moving and work next friday! Then I am starting training again; Campusing, fingerboarding and a bit of fitness. My goals are to climb Vecchia Leone this winter, plus a V12 or higher on lime, grit and sand stone. I want to get back to Wales in August to and up to the County!

Hippies, Scallies, Sheep und Climbing!

2008-05-21T15:20:00.002+01:00

Headed down to Wales for a few days last friday with strong boys Liam 'Guns Mcgee' Desroy and Tom 'Gangle' Newman. Got down at about half 5 in the evening, bon weather meant we headed straight to the Pass. Quick warm up and after an hour or so and much skin loss (on my behalf) we had all dispatched 'Diesel Power', V11. Nice way to start off the trip, curry time!

Next day we were plagued by on/off rain all day, where do you go when in Wales and it rains?! THE CAVE! I had only been once before and was not particurlarly inspired. After warming up and not being able to pull off the floor on 'Trigger Cut' I got a little moody and promptly announced that I was done! Liam soldiered on with 'Broken Heart' and should of dispatched, sadly his fitness (or lack of) let him down at the end! Tom was getting closer to 'Trigger Cut' so I decided to have another go (good competitive spirit), after managing to pull on the next few moves felt easy! Sadly slapping to the shot hole (the crux) was close but never close enough, next time! Although I wont be returning in a hurry; I think other places in Wales are so much better! Went to check out 'Manchester Dogs' at Angel Bay, Gangle dispatched fast, bon effort!

Back to Liam's for an indoor BBQ then off to the end of week party for the Trad Festival that had been going on that week. This party was quite boring so we left and went to a wedding reception at the Fricsan. This was better; Hippies, Scallies and a DJ wearing a fez all rolled into one room. Sweet! Cider flowed and the dance floor was destroyed, I also got a shoulder massage from Jonny Dawes, Thanks Jonny!

The holy day of Sunday was a rest day, as in all good Christian house holds! We chilled, watched movies of Dai crushing Europe and went to scope out a project roof in the Pass!

Monday we headed to the Pass where Tom et moi dispatched 'Humble Pie', V10! Should of flashed it but a great move and the good thing was that it didnt hurt my shoulder! Tom then crushed 'Lotus', V10 in his usual gangley way! Too long for me at the moment! Elephantitus Cave next; I chilled and Liam did 'Tusk', V10 and got very close to the extension, 'Cross Therapy' before popping his finger! Luckily he didnt think it was too bad and climbed the next day but just on two fingers! Waddage points!
The day of long walk-ins continued and we headed up to Sheep Pen with Nodders and Hocking. I was so psyched for 'Jerry's Problem' as the year before I couldnt even pull off the floor. I flashed the first (crux) move and while deciding what to do my finger went pop!! Not good but it didnt hurt too much. I then proceeded to Drop the jug, get angry, loose skin and become too weak to finish this problem up! Annoying, if I was at full fitness I am sure I would of flashed it or at least definately finished it off. But not to be, next time! Gangle dispatched again, what a day for the young whipper snapper! Also had a quick play on 'The Menace', this felt hard and am very psyched to try this after doing 'Jerry's'. To the pub for a beer!

Last day syndrome=tired bodies, two injured fingers and no skin! Oh well, Caseg boulder time. We managed to do the hardest and one of the best V9's I have done called 'Dont Think Feel'. This revolved around an amazing pinch and a crafty heel. Went to Pete's for a snack then up the pass to finish off the skin. Dispatched 'James Pond' sitter and tried 'Breathe', but didnt have enough beans or skin to finish off!

Very psyched for Wales after this trip (having never spent much time there in the past) and will be down lots over the summer hopefully. Some of the areas are so beautiful and the varitey of rock and climbing is excellent. My tick list has been completed and I am ready for the next trip!

Got a week off now, as I am working on Friday, probably best to rest my finger anyway! Very pleased how good my shoulder felt all weekend. I only had one twinge on the last day!

Hopefully will mange to get some photos and footage from peeps to break up this boring waffle soon!

Update

2008-05-06T15:30:00.002+01:00

Just been to see the shoulder specialist, she has given me new, more advanced exercises to do but only once a day, thankfully! Suppose to do these for the next 6 weeks and then cut it down to 2-3 times a week.

She also said that by mid July I should be back to strength and able to start training again, which fits in nicely with my plans!

Trying to get into the Swing of Things!

2008-05-05T21:00:00.005+01:00

'Swiss Crisp Mix', V10, Hueco Tanks.

A picture to brighten up this stimulating blog entry of one of the crimpiest (is that a word?) mothers in Hueco!

Have been climbing again for about 3 weeks now and my strength and fitness are slowly coming back. I have no plans to start training properly again till I return from Europe in July.

Have been on limestone a few times and although conditions have been whack I feel strong enough but my puff seems to run out very fast. More fitness needed!

I also put on a rope for the first time the other day. I got close to 'Rattle & Hump' at the Tor but no cigar. Next time hopefully.

My plan is to head to Europe for about a month, visiting Magic, Fionnay and maybe Varazze. Then head over to Montauban for the World Cup round in early July. I am not going to do it but Ned is and I am the designated driver plus there should be a good party after anyway!

In July I am moving into a new house in Crookes with a cellar, Bonus! Gonna get back into hang boarding regularly and start trying to campus twice a week, plus getting out on slimestone as much as possible.

Until then I am just going to enjoy climbing and this sun that seems to have turned up.

Amsterdam on Friday for 3 days as well which should be a blast!

First day back, Boom!

2008-04-15T21:17:00.003+01:00

Went outdoors today for the first time since I dislocated my shoulder. Headed up to Wharncliffe with Andy B. I hadnt been there before so was just keen to do anything that felt ok on the shoulder.

Started off by warming up on some nice little problems and then went onto 'Kim Span', a V6 that hasnt seen any repeats due to people thinking that you need a large amount of span to top out this bloc. Andy (-2 ape) dispatched 2nd go and I quickly followed. The problem is not that spanny but is great climbing, consider it thoroughly recommended.

After this we headed to the main buttress, Dragons Den. Here I did a few more good problems including a V7 called 'Crouching Tiger'. I also should of done 'Dragon Slayer', a brilliant V7 involving heels, toes and guppys. Unfortunately I fell off the top after failing to see a huge crimp, oops! Was de-pumping and waiting for another go when the heavens opened.

A much better day than I expected, and much more achieved also so I was pretty happy! My strength doesnt seem to have disappeared completely but my fitness is kaput! Oh well sure all will return.

Home for more shoulder exercises. Joy, joy, joy!

Works on Thursday I think.

Almcliff Short

2008-03-17T09:57:00.003Z

http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/yg/video/almscliff__movie.mov

A short film with problems from Almscliff by Nige Poustie.

No Mystery Video

2008-03-14T13:40:00.005Z

Untitled from david mason on Vimeo.

Here is a video of No Mystery (8a/+) from my trip to Switzerland in November. I did this on my last day there after a friend dried out the holds with toilet paper!

My shoulder is getting better; I am doing lots of rehab and trying to improve my core strength while I cant do any climbing. I saw the physio last night and fingers crossed I can start climbing again in about 3 weeks. Hoping to have time to get semi fit for Magic Wood in mid June. I will just have to pick my problems carefully!

A few more pics!

2008-02-20T14:29:00.003Z

The Full Monty (crux move)

The Full Monty

Topping out the Tickler

Gutted!!

2008-02-16T21:04:00.001Z

Dislocated my right shoulder the other day, so am heading back to the UK on Wednesday! Am really gutted!

Scream!!!

2008-02-08T20:32:00.000Z

A few pictures of 'Scream' taken by Adam Lincoln. Notice the left hand volkan! Nice!

A Good Day!

2008-02-08T19:43:00.000Z

Power of Landjager

Its pretty warm here at the moment and I slightly sprained my wrist the other day so I am having a few rest days. I did my wrist falling off 'Power of Landjager'; arguably the best line at Hueco. I managed the hard swing move but some how got insanely pumped and fluffed the top. My wrist isnt too bad though and I will definitely dispatch next time.

I had a rest day after injuring my wrist and it felt fine to climb on yesterday. I learnt how to do the gaston move on 'Full Monty' and dispatched that which was brilliant. A four star V12 in Hueco, sweet! It is strange though cause as soon as I learnt the movement it felt easy (as always I suppose)! We had a lot of pads with us so we got on 'French Tickler'. The problem climbs a really beautiful, orange wall on crimps and gastons with very few feet. After a few goes of foot slippage I dispatched; as did Adam and Lee. Angie was also very close to the second female ascent. She will definitely dispatch if there is time before she leaves.

Next to the 'Tickler' is a very crimpy problem called 'Swiss Crisp Mix'. I had no real interest in this but seen as we were there I thought I would give it a flash go. After all the difficult climbing I found myself at the top on what everyone said was a jug but felt very much like a sloper to me. Using a very contorted and bunchy sequence I eventually rolled over the top to discover I had over shot the jug! Oops! My second V10 flash; joining the ranks of Ben Moon and Irish Si who Jamie informed me had flashed this problem too!

By the end of the day my wrist had swollen up nicely and I could barely put on my shoes. Today it feels a little better though so fingers crossed!! Unfortunately it means i missed a tour to East Mountain where there a few things I want to try. About three weeks till I head to Bishop, I best get sending!!

Super Bowl Sunday!

2008-02-03T23:03:00.000Z

The Flame, V11.

Rest day today, so its super bowl watching day! Had a good session on 'Full Monty' the other day and probably should of done it! This is one of hardest 12s I have seen and definitely one of the best lines in Hueco. Next time!!

Had another good day yesterday on East Mountain. Flashed a cool V9 called 'Man Gum' and did a seldom repeated highball V10 called 'Whispers of Mortality'. Two hard roof moves, followed by a big rose move at the lip and then a high crimpy wall climb. I was hanging on for dear life on the wall and bruised my tips (hopefully going to repeat it and get it on film).

One of the best lines I have seen in Hueco and very stiff for the grade. This will make the Brits happy as most people think Hueco is soft! In my opinion it is the same as everywhere; some hard, some standard and some soft for the grade!

Off to the bar!!

Getting Better! Slightly!

2008-01-31T21:38:00.000Z

Well been here a few more days now and I am starting to get it together a bit more. My friend Adam arrived on Tuesday which is good, a fellow Brit to represent. Had one of my best days of climbing yesterday on West Mountain, which has some real gems on it.

Flashed a cool V9 called 'Shroom', then did '1969' a very atypical problem of Hueco; slopers and compression up a vertical wall. Moved on next to 'Best of the Best' which is an amazing but very long problem. Kevin and Adam got quite close. Too long for me!

Next went to a problem called 'Eckagrata' involving two finger pockets and a cool dyno. Finished the day on 'Scream', one of the best lines in Hueco (in my opinion), very grit like, revolving around a left-hand switch from a sloper to a gaston!

East Spur tomorrow, going to start working 'Full Monty'!!

2008-01-27T20:37:00.000Z

Hueco Tanks

2008-01-24T19:55:00.000Z

I have been here for about a week now and so far I havent climbed without tape on my fingers!! This place is sharp! It also takes getting used to but am just coming to terms with it. Met lots of cool people and even landed myself a camper to stay in, sweet, especially when the wind gets up! Everyone is super friendly, even with my constant abuse!

The climbing is pretty cool and have just been scoping stuff out really as I adjust to the crimpiness of the climbing. I have got close to lots but not sent so much yet. Did 'The Flame' the other day which is cool looking prow, although a bit boxed, in the rock is really nice. Fell off yesterday with my hand on the finishing jug of 'Power of Silence' which was a bit disappointing but it seems to be a lot of peoples bogey problem! Its an amazing line and definately hard for the grade! Hopefully will do some more dispatching soon, as I feel close to quite a few things.

Off to see 'Slashface' tomorrow which I am very psyched for!

Other than that I am trying to teach these yanks a thing or two about the English language and they seem intent on taking the piss out of my accent!

Hopefully a few photos soon depending on how quickly my friend gets his ass in to gear.

Curbaaaaar!

2008-01-05T17:30:00.000Z

Play Hard, 7c.

Lots of rain last night, so I assumed everywhere would be wet but how wrong I was. Warmed up on the trackside boulder and Ben persuaded me to have a few goes on 'Play Hard'. Not great to look at but moves that are tres bon. Actually ended up doing it twice. 'Work Hard' next time if I have the lank.

Moved on to 'Great White' next, I had tried this the other day with Jon Boy but couldnt hold the last pocket. After about 10 goes it was looking like that would be the case again but I pulled something out the bag. This problem is amazing and I think everyone should go and do it!!!

Wanted to do 'Hurricane' too so headed up as the sun was sinking. I kept hitting the top fully but couldnt hold it (dont ask me why), fatigue was catching up with me and so was the light. Ah well next time for that little bugger!

Great day but no skin now!!

A Random Pic!!

2008-01-02T11:36:00.001Z

Made in Norway (7b), Chironico

A random picture from Swiss in April. Taken by Simon Richardson of Dark Peak Images.

Deck the Halls with Balls of Holly!

2007-12-31T15:41:00.000Z

I enjoyed a few days off over christmas, eating lots and a few drinks on the side. Since then the weather has been fairly useless but have managed to get out a little. Went to Stumphole Cavern the other day and did the 7b+ version, should of flashed it really but the holds were damp. Tried the dyno finish which is yet to see a repeat and got reasonably close! Will be back!

Also headed to Burbage West; where I reached my high point on 'West Side Story' (next time for sure) and did 'Famous Grouse' which is brilliant and quite tricky for 7b+. Just before the rain came we headed to try 'Spring Voyage' at Stanage, got close but needed colder conditions really, its a toughy!
Have been trying to train for the states mainly although I am really psyched for ticking things on grit at the mo.

Anyway off for New Year festivities in Leeds now!

Rings and Superbloc!

2007-12-20T16:55:00.001Z

Ryan sticking the crux on Superbloc

Had a really good rings session with Paul last night. Felt very strong on everything except dips and off-set pull ups. Even managed 2 sets of 5 muscle ups!! Cashback! Paul rigged up a pulley system to allow us to try iron crosses with assistance of weights. This was really cool but really hard as well!

The video below shows me trying to fly at first!! Automatic reaction to put my legs back! Superman!

Went on Superbloc again today with Ryan and Dan unfortunately Ned had a presentation. I eventually worked out that the sequence that I thought was right was wrong and so reverted back to Ryan's sequence (if that makes any sense)!

Was even closer to sticking the crux! I think for sure that next time this move will go, I hope anyway. Dan did the top out saying that it is not too hard but scary. I am just going to wait for sending psych to try it!

A few from Baslow!

2007-12-19T15:03:00.002Z

Flatworld LH

Eaglestone Bouldering

Superbloc

2007-12-18T10:35:00.000Z

Went on Superbloc yesterday at Moorside Rocks. For those that dont know it is probably the best looking line in the Peak or up there at least. A big blunt arete on slopers and pockets!!

Headed out with Dan, Ned, Luke and Ryan. Dan had been on it before so had beta for getting to the crux move. I eventually figured out a better way for me to do this but was tired. Got to the stage of slapping to the pocket but not holding it.
Ryan had three good burns of holding the pocket and doing the next move but was too tired by then. Hopefully back on it on Thursday. Ry also made an impressive flash of Suavito!

Had a good fingerboard session when I got home as my finger now feels up to it. Role on training for the states, fingers crossed anyway.

Much Hotter than Expected!

2007-12-11T16:56:00.000Z

Headed out today with Rhys. First stop was Stanage Right for a bit of a warm up in the sun. Never been here before so did some fun solos and then headed to Baslow to meet Iain and Jamie. The Eaglestone had very soggy landings at most points but did a few new problems. I like this boulder a lot, the problems are all really fun and involve a surprising amount of climbing.

Then headed to Flatworld area. I was keen for LH having had a few goes on it last summer. First go I reached the last move but didnt fancy throwing. I was annoyed cause I thought that the fear factor may get me. Iain then dispatched using a high right heel for the last move. Got up there next go, heel on the arete and did the move static!! Would of liked to chalk and blow but it was a bit greasy for that. Brilliant problem! Tried the origional and should of done it but greased off the top move, decided to save my skin and call it a day!

Some pictures to follow hopefully!

Team Training!

2007-12-09T22:04:00.000Z

Busy day on Friday started by getting to work for 7 and finishing at 3, a quick bite to eat and some energy hydration and I was off to the School for another rings sess with Lee and Paul. Went pretty well especially the muscle ups. Back home, protein and more food and off to work again, finishing at half 11. Unfortunately this meant missing the Works' party!

Up nice and early on Saturday to get to the new wall at Stockport for 10. Morning consisted of doing a circuit of 20 problems, seeing the physio followed by an afternoon of problem setting and general destroying of our bodies. My finger held up ok after a week of no climbing but probably wont be training inside again this week, just rings, arm work and perhaps outdoors.

Headed up to Preston for the night, watched Amir Khan knock out Graham Earl in 72 seconds, incredible! Just chilled for the rest of the evening. Early morning run on Sunday and then to the West View Leisure Centre for admin and circuit training. These circuits involved 12 exercises doing 30 seconds on, 30 seconds off. By the end everyone was dead! Destroyed abs, shoulders, arms and legs!

Home time. Thank god!

The good news is the weather looks amazing for this week, fingers crossed (not my bad one though!)

Rings, Rings, Rings!

2007-12-05T23:45:00.000Z

Had a session on the rings tonight with Paul and Lee, was bob on too! Reckon I will feel sore tomorrow! Having a bit of time off from actual climbing at the mo' due to a slight finger niggle, going to be filling my time with arm and core work plus the RINGS!

Had my first High 5 protein bar today, double choclate flavour and it was delice! Yummy!

How was it Dry?!

2007-12-01T17:19:00.000Z

After the rain last night I was amazed to hear from Rhys this morning telling me the rock was dry! Went to pick up Ned and then headed to Gardoms South. When we got there it felt cold and windy. Slowly warmed up and then went over to try 'Suavito' with Rhys and Dan.

When I first saw this problem I thought it looked amazing but pretty scary, anyway before I knew it I was at the last move and actually it didnt feel too scary at all! It is class climbing, a real gem in the peak!

Thought I would try 'Barry Sheene' next. At first it felt desperate; tiny crimp to a hard rock up followed by a nails match and slap. After about 10 goes it was done but so was my skin!!

Looked at 'Superbloc' on the way back to the car; result was being psyched out of my tiny mind. Hopefully this week will bring some cold days.

Headed up to Gardoms North to try 'Full Power'. A little damp but we both did pretty well, eventually figuring out the moves and Ned making a good link through to the stand up! I was too tired though and so decided to save skin and leave it for another day. Will definately be back soon!

2007-11-27T11:11:00.000Z

The Swizzy Story

2007-11-27T10:40:00.000Z

Well to cut it short rain was the story!! When we got there the weather was perfect; cold, blue skies and sun but that changed after a few days and rain was the case!

Brione Stories:
Had a session at Brione on a problem called 'General Disarray' (8b), which is awesome dynamic climbing, I did all the moves but got tired and sadly never returned to the problem. Another Swiss problem on the list. James dispatched as usual!!

Had two sessions on 'Vecchia Leone' (8b), this is probably the best problem I have ever seen in the flesh and am so psyched to do it. First sess I did all the moves and did the problem from 2 moves in. Came back a couple of days later and was having a mare on it. I couldnt even do the first move!!! Then something clicked and I had 4 goes of getting through the crux for me and holding the next hold for a split second then before blowing off. I did it without the first move to the top but ended up getting tired!! Rain came the next day and that was it. So frustrating but I know I can do it on my next session, whenever that is!!

Chironico Stories:
I did very little climbing here. I tried 'Freak Brothers' cause I had been very close on the last trip, unfortunately after my first go I couldnt get the toe hook to stick, I got pissed off and left it. Did a 7c called Powerstrips which was fun. Watched James on 'From Dirt Grows Flowers' (8c), the boy did good and I reckon after a few more sessions he will do it. The problem climbs amazingly!

On the Last day it started to dry up and we managed to squeeze a few hours of climbing in. Did 'That Goes Left' (8a) and 'No Mystery' (8a+) in damp conditions. Would of done 'Schule des Lebans' (8b) too but it was too dark and my foot blew off.
Rhys and Birkby wanted to try 'Doctor Med Dent' (7b+) and because it is right next to a track we drove the cars up next to it for a headlight ascent. Pretty cool climbing but like everything in Swiss a little soft, Haha!

Back in Englands rain now but psyched for training, 2 months till I go to the States so want to be getting strong!

School Room

2007-11-13T11:23:00.000Z

Having to attend a training day today was not fun, sitting inside while the weather outside was perfect for grit. Probably the best day we have had this year so far, damn!

Headed up to the School room in the evening with Mr. Bennett, Keen youth, and of course Dobbin was there. Warmed up slowly as it was freezing and decided to see if I could do 'Turd Reich' again and indeed I could (2nd go). Moved on the 'Too Fluffy' and 'School Girl', not really ever tried these two much but I did the crux on 'Too Fluffy' and nearly linked 'School Girl' so was quite pleased. Next time!!!

The other three as usual looked waddage; Dobbin repeated 'Too Fluffy' with ease, Paul did 'Stuey's' first go then dispatched numerous other hard thing whilst James just tried everything but with a 6.5 kilo weight belt on!!

Swiss tomorrow, ca$h back!

Sundays a Holy Day so put that Fo' Fo' Away!

2007-11-11T20:38:00.000Z

Dont know why I chose this title but thank you to Ludacris anyway! Was psyched for a bit of limestone today but woke up and it was damp so all my motivation evaporated. Went to theWorks to do some power endurance stuff; the purple circuit on the training board, managed it 3 times and fell off just at the end of my 4th effort. Felt quite good though, want to get the pink one done!

Watched some beasts on tv doing the rings at a gymnastics event in Glasgow, this Dutch guy had bi-ceps bigger than his head!!

Fingerboard session this evening at Neds which was cool, managed some good one arm hangs and pull ups on the beams, which i was both surpised and pleased with because my pinch strength is so weak! Both of us pulled some classic gurns!

Swiss is getting closer, cant wait till Wednesday, hopefully a School session tomorrow.

A Real Beasting.

2007-11-07T16:14:00.000Z

After team training last week i realised that my fitness is not so good and in an attempt to clear this up, I am going to start a speed circuit session once a week. Headed down to the Works with strong and elastic boy, Ned for some campusing and circuits.

After warming up we got on the campus board and quickly realised that neither of us felt amazing but we carried on regardless. Four exercises in the campus routine and repeat this three times with a few minutes rest inbetween. Ended up doing ok really.

We then chose 20 problems for our circuit, with the difficulty ranging from about 6b up to 7b+. The circuit involves trying a problem and then immediately getting on the next, two goes maximum on each problem. I ended up completing 14 of the problems but as ever burnt off by Ned with 18. Its good for me though as I have someone to chase!!

New yellow circuit up so we did some of those, pretty good to, nice one Sam and Percy!

Was going to go and try Darkstar again tomorrow but my skin is thin, so a rest day me thinks. Going to Leeds tomorrow night to set for the comp on friday.

Guplets Wall

2007-11-06T16:07:00.000Z

Guplets on Toast sitter (V8+)

Headed to Guplets Wall today with Mr. Varian to try a highball, unrepeated (I think) V10 of John Welfords. First impressions when we got there was that it looked nails. Warmed up on an ace problem to the left called Guplets on Toast (V8+). Some nice moves followed by a scary top out, at least for me anyway!!

On to Darkstar and after trying to work the bottom bit we decided that the crux was probably a dynamic move into a mono! After trying this for a while Dan stuck it and proceeded to top out, making it look pretty scary! I hit the mono and held it but slid out. So the crux felt ok you just needed to keep your head for the top.

We then found a slightly easier way of doing the first part but my skin was spent and so I stopped. Dan had a good run through from the bottom but forgot about his feet after the mono, oops!! Definately be coming back to this, it really is so good!

Anyway a few hours rest now and then off to the Dream Machine board with Dan, Ned and maybe Fritz Herman aka Tony! Sweet, psyched for some pulling just hope my skin is too!